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  • ABOUT US
    • CONTACT
  • EVENTS
  • PRODUCTS
    • SEED STARTING SUPPLIES
    • SOIL + AMENDMENTS
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    • GARDEN CONSULTATIONS
    • CONTAINER DESIGN
  • GIFT CARDS
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3/20/2026 1 Comment

Seed-Starting Do's & Don'ts

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Seed Starting Do's and Don'ts

As Walt would say, 'Gardeners, start your engines'! It's time to begin gathering seeds and supplies for starting them indoors.  There is a wealth of information available on seed-starting techniques, but here are some basic do's and dont's:

DO use a heat mat. 
It adds at least an extra 10 degrees of warmth right where you need it - 
the bottom of your seed tray which speeds germination. 

DO invest in good lighting. 

DON'T keep the germination dome on too long. As soon as you see them sprouting, remove the dome. 

DO read the seed packet. There's a wealth of helpful information there. Botanical Interests seed packets even have info on the inside of the packet. 

DON'T start your seeds too early. If you seedlings became too leggy in the past, it could be a lighting issue, but it could also be that you started them too early. Read the recommended start date on the packet. Many refer to the average last frost day as a benchmark which in our area is May 17.

DO water from the bottom if possible.  

DO provide some air movement. Even a small fan near the seed trays will keep air moving and help prevent damping off. 

DO use a sterile seed starting mix. It's been formulated and screened to give seeds a good start. We recommend HSU Germination Mix. It's organic and a Wisconsin byproduct of the ginseng industry. 

DON'T be afraid to try something new. If you tried starting seeds in the past without much success, give it another try. Analyze your conditions and determine what needs to be improved. 

DON'T be intimitated by the process. Start simple and start small. 

One last don't: Don't be afraid of failure - that's one way we learn! It's totally worth discovering the joy of watching a seed sprout, grow, and bloom!
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3/9/2026 4 Comments

Spring Pruning

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Every year about this time, gardeners stand in their yards with pruners in hand, ready to cut, whack, saw, and do the meatball. But wait! Not all woody plants should be pruned the same way or at the same time. Other gardeners are intimidated by pruning, get out the hedge shears, or prefer to do nothing. No matter which you are, these helpful tips will boost your confidence and arm you with the know-how to make the right cuts.  
​Pruning Basics
  • March is the right time to prune back many trees and shrubs. They are still dormant, making it easy to study the branching habit and cut above leaf nodes. 
  • Make slightly slanted pruning cuts about 1/4" above a leaf node. Slant the cut away from the bud. 
  • Prune non-spring-blooming shrubs now before they leaf out.
  • Cut back Spirea and Potentilla down to 6” every 2-3 years to reshape and to remove dead branches. 
  • Annabelle Hydrangeas can be cut back to 18” from the ground. Wait to cut back other hydrangeas until you see signs of green leaf buds swelling. If you have had trouble with Hydrangeas not blooming, skip the pruning altogether this year. 
  • Do NOT prune lilacs, Forsythias, Viburnum, and other spring-blooming shrubs now. Wait until they have bloomed, then cut back. 
  • For an illustration and links to maintenance pruning videos, check out this article by Fine Gardening here. 

The Unprunables
* Some shrubs can be intimidating even for experienced gardeners. Elderberry, Flowering Quince, Forsythia, Mock Orange, and Weigela can be pruned using three different techniques. One is known as rejuvenation, which involves cutting all the branches back hard to about 6" from the ground. This stimulates an explosion of new growth and is best used when shrubs have grown out of control. If this is too drastic for you, break it into a three-year plan. Every year for three years, remove one-third of the oldest canes to the ground level. By year three, you'll have a completely new, nicely-shaped, healthy shrub.  The other two methods for the unprunables are described here.

 
Other Tips & Resources
  • Do not prune trees and shrubs that were planted last year. Give them time to get established first. 
  • Invest in a good pair of pruners and a pruning saw. Felco and Corona are both high-quality brands and favorites amongst our staff. We have Corona in-store and can order Felco upon request.
  • The best pruning book that we know of is by the New York Botanical Garden. Written by Daryl Beyers, The New Gardener's Handbook covers all the basics of gardening. In addition to an informative chapter on pruning, it offers helpful garden tips for even experienced gardeners.  
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​Fruit Tree Care in Spring
We get lots of questions every spring about fruit trees, including when and how to prune. The following should help answer your questions:
  • Check the base of trees for signs of vole/rabbit damage.
  • Fertilize late March/early April before growth begins.
  • Check plums and cherries for black knot by April 1 to prevent spore release. Disinfect pruners between cuts.
  • Time to prune!
    • Remove broken, crossed, or damaged branches.
    • Remove suckers and water sprouts.
  • Begin spraying apple trees to prevent apple scab and other insect and disease problems.
    • Spray dormant oil on dry, calm days and when temperatures are at least 40 degrees.
    • Apply before buds break. Do not spray when flowers are blooming to avoid harming beneficial bees. 

Tracy Hankwitz, Horticulturist and General Manager at Burlington Garden Center. 
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